The following illustrations show
The following illustrations show 17 ways of how to attach the tabletop to the table structure. We have prepared a 3D view and 2D drawings to make it easier for you to understand how each of the methods really works.
Tabletop fastening method
1. Button fasteners – As the tabletop expands and contracts, button fasteners are free to slide within the groove. Grooves can be made along the entire apron, or to be slightly longer than the button width. Easy to make and install, it allows movement in two directions (along the apron and perpendicular to it).
2. Button fastener with kerf – This method is similar to the previous one, the only difference is that the kerf under the working end of the button can be bent up or down. This bending can be very useful if you have a groove made a little higher or lower than it should be. Grooves can be made along the entire apron, or to be slightly longer than the button width.
3. Metal table clips (Z fastener, S-shaped clips) – Z-fasteners are a metal version of the button fasteners. It is an inexpensive and easy to install, and allows for a great deal of wood movement.
4. Flat twin circle clip (figure 8 clip, or figure 8 fastener) – Easy to install and inexpensive. The shape of the figure 8 fastener allows them to pivot as the tabletop expands and contracts. Depending on accessibility, these fasteners can be installed on the inside or outside of the apron.
5. Cleat with slotted hole (wooden blocks) – Glued to the apron and screwed to the underside of the tabletop. Block must be designed so that the long grain (not the end grain) is glued to the apron. If the block were made without a groove, this way would fall into the stationary method.
6. Screw block (cleat) – This method is similar to the previous one, the only difference is that the block is fixed to the apron with wood screws and not by gluing. If the block were made without a groove, this way would fall into the stationary method.
7. Dovetail block – allows the most movement but is the hardest to make.
A dovetail shaped part is screwed to the tabletop, and a block with corresponding slot is glued to the apron.
8. Beveled cleat
9. Dovetail cleat – Slot and dovetail cleat taper 1/16in. in width from one end to the other.
(nacim nakreslit) The dovetailed cleats keep a tabletop flat, and they also allow movement.
- Stationary tabletop fastening method
10. Pocket hole – great for small tables. The holes are drilled at an angle
of 10 degrees. Pocket holes can be made to allow for slight movement of the tabletop
in two ways:by drilling slightly oversized pilot holes or by making
the holes oval in the direction of movement.
11. Corner iron
By making grooves instead of holes, this method would become a free-moving fastening method.
13. Screw – If shank hole and counterbore are oversized,
this will allow the tabletop slight movement.
14. Screw and plugs
15. Top pin – Top pin can be tapered or threaded. This method is suitable for heavy and large tables that often need to be moved when expanded. In the past, it was mainly used for tables in pubs, butchers' tables and the like.
Tapered top pin
Threaded top pin
16. In the next picture you can see how to attach the tabletop to a tripod table structure.
17. In the next picture you can see how to attach the tabletop to a table structure that has no apron.